India: Mahoba’s Desawari variety betel leaf could disappear in three to four years; here is why

“I have never faced such monumental crop loss,” says Bijendra Chaurasia, reviewing his betel leaf garden, or bareja, spread over 0.4 hectare (ha). “The heavy dew and cold waves in January destroyed my Rs 10 lakh worth of pan (betel leaves),” says the 29-year-old, looking at the blackened vines entwined around bamboo sticks placed in rows in a greenhouse that resembles a rectangular hut. Betel leaves, along with areca nuts and other assorted condiments, are chewed as mouth fresheners across the Indian subcontinent. Bijendra says his ancestors have grown pan for hundreds of years in Mahoba, a district on the southern border of Uttar Pradesh. “My generation might be the last to cultivate it.” His neighbour Rajkumar Chaurasia says all the 100 families who grow pan in the district have faced crop destruction this year. “The losses are huge as most of us grow the Mahoba Desawari variety, which practically dissolves in the mouth and has a unique fragrance. It fetches double the price ...