The star of every yerra is the food. And not only the "criadilla," which are the testicles of castrated calves during the traditional celebration, but also the roast that brings together workers, veterinarians, and ranch owners around the fire at the end of the day. The yerra is an event that used to be held on each farm during autumn to castrate calves, mark them, and provide additional care. Today, it remains a vestige of another era, and in La Carlota, in southern Córdoba, a family of veterinarians still organizes it each year as an excuse to gather friends, neighbors, and tourists for a very different day. Today, Arnaldo "Cachi" Pra's yerras bring together no fewer than 300 people, who arrive early at his field to eat pastries with hot chocolate, watch gauchos lasso and castrate, play truco and taba, listen to music, and eat well. To make this happen, a large group of people work intensely in the days prior to ensure nothing is missing. Some are uniformed with an apron ...